Since earlier in the millennium, bartenders have been ushering in a new ice age, one filled with denser, clearer and more functional pieces of solid-state H2O. These hand-chipped, over-sized and extra-cold ices keep drinks cooler while looking good. As I travel around the country, it's clear that ice is still hot. If you're one of these ice-crazy bartenders or just keen on cocktalia, let me share a story that'll help you make even better ice for your drinks.

Flashback to summer a few years ago, when we made a small batch of a new vodka. After we finished, the sample had a “watery” mouthfeel. It also tasted separated — the alcohol equivalent of oil and vinegar. After some testing and backtracking, we discovered the problem. We had used filtered, instead of de-ionized water.

At the Fruit Lab (my company's factory), we raise or lower the alcohol level of production batches by adding high-proof ethanol (drinking alcohol) to raise the proof and de-ionized water to lower the proof. De-ionized water is critical in lowering proof because, unlike tap, spring or filtered water, it forms tighter molecular bonds with ethanol to form a new compound, commonly known as booze.

The temperature of the batch actually rises a few degrees because of this chemical reaction. (You can test this at home by mixing equal parts high proof rubbing alcohol and distilled water. Though tempting, don't drink it!)

What exactly is de-ionized water? It's pure H2O produced through distillation or reverse-osmosis that removes all trace minerals, such as sodium, calcium, iron, copper, chloride and bromide. These elements hinder the ability of water to bind with ethanol, which is why beverage makers use this purer type of water. (Oh, and don't worry about serving too much pure water to customers because it lacks essential minerals. We get all we need of them through food.)

So how does this translate to the bar?

When you shake a cocktail with ice or serve it over ice, you're effectively lowering the drink's proof and face the same chemistry challenge as us. Making ice out of de-ionized, or distilled, water will let you dilute your drinks correctly without making them taste watery. In fact, I'm trying it right now…mmmm.

I suggest using distilled water ice cubes in drinks whose texture will be created primarily by alcohol and ice, such as:
- An overproofed spirit served on the rocks (e.g., cask strength whisky)
- Alcohol only cocktails, like some of the classics

If this doesn't turn out to be your thing, you can melt it down later and use it in your iron.

NOTE: Several bartenders I discussed this with at Tales of the Cocktail said, “OK, so how do I get de-ionized water into my ice machine?” Thankfully, there are many in-line reverse osmosis filtration systems that could do the trick. Here's a place to start your search.

Things That “Lurk”

How do spirits achieve their flavor, aroma and texture? Usually, it's as a direct result of ingredients and the production process. The smokiness of some whiskeys and mezcals is a good example of this. Sometimes, though, there's a little something extra involved that's not on the label.

Let's meet one of them: glycerol, aka, glycerin, glycerine or E-422, if you want to be on a first-name basis. It's all around us — from health and beauty aids to food and drink, including spirits.

Why put glycerol in spirits? It smooths out rough edges by adding a touch of sweetness and viscosity to liquor. Think of it as spirits makers' version of “soft focus.” Remember the last time you had an especially smooth, viscousy, slightly sweet grain-based spirit? That thick mouth feel was probably the work of our multi-tasking lurker, glycerol.

Glycerol is an alcohol by-product of soapmaking and is also created during the transformation of vegetable oil into fuel. Because it's odorless, colorless, free of flavor — i.e., hard to detect — it’s an ideal “lurker” additive. See if you can spot it in some of your high-end spirits.

Things That “Lurk” is an occasional series on spirits additives

Larry Nicola, founder, executive chef and vodkateur of Beverly Hills-based Nic’s, talks about his beloved VODBOX, leopard coats and what he eats for breakfast.

You call yourself the vodkateur. It that a real title?
Isn't this silly? One night during an interview in the VODBOX someone asked who you are and I said, “I am the VODKATEUR” and I felt at that moment I had become Mr. V., ambassador to enjoying exquisite vodkas.

What's the VODBOX?
I tried to take vodka to a whole other level by creating the proper atmosphere for tasting and learning about vodka with the finest collection in the world. The VODBOX is basically a storage space made into an excessively showy, walk-in/drink-in exhibition space for vodka. We have trained Vodka Impresarios who look like they could be in a James Bond movie—dressed to kill. And all those pretty girls in the leopard hats and coats, it looks like a den of leopard cubs and I get scared…

It sounds like your professional life revolves around this clear spirit. How many have you tasted?
What, in a night? To date, I’ve tasted around 200-250. (Nicola seems to have lost count). The VODBOX carries about 80-100 made with everything from potato and rice to wheat, rye, corn and grapes.

When you're not drinking vodka, what do you order at the bar?
If it's beer, it's Dos Equis.

You don't drink vodka for breakfast, do you?
No, but I eat my cereal out of a martini glass.